C.A.R.E Formulas for UV Protection

What does C.A.R.E mean?

This is a selection of mineral-based sunscreens that use C.A.R.E ingredients.

C.A.R.E is defined as follows:

Clean
PEG-free, plant-based, ocean-safe* ingredients
Aesthetically-Pleasing
Each emulsifier provides a unique texture signature changing old perceptions of ‘heavy‘ or ‘thick’ mineral sunscreens.
Robust
These ingredients work to enhance sun protection levels through emulsification, improved dispersion or cellular protection.
Effortless
HLB-free emulsification or just-add ingredients makes suncare development easy!

*Expected to have high biodegradability

C.A.R.E Formula’s Texture Signature

Click product name and discover more.

Watery Comfort Rich, Protective

Herbal UV Protection Milk
NIKKOL
Nikkomulese® 41S

Natural UV Base
NIKKOL
Nikkomulese® LC-EF

Natural W/O Sunscreen
NIKKOL
Nikkomulese® WO-NS

Sunscreen Cream
NIKKOL
Nikkomulese® LH

Soft Film Feel Hard

Ingredients for Mineral-Based Sunscreen (Natural Origin Index* >0.95)

Click product name to check.

*Natural origin index: ISO16128 compliant

CLEAN Emulsifiers

HighlightNIKKOL Nikkomulese® 41S
Lamellar gel network emulsifier for water-resistant O/W sunscreen.
Lamellar gel network emulsifier for water-resistant O/W sunscreen
NIKKOL Nikkomulese® 41S

INCI name: BEHENYL ALCOHOL, POLYGLYCERYL-10 PENTASTEARATE, SODIUM STEAROYL LACTYLATE

  • Verified by ECOCERET COSMOS APPROVED
  • EWG SCORE Clean Beauty1
  • RSPO Compliant
  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index0.98
  • No-Animal Testing
  • Preservative-free
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
Keep SPF by Water-proof Film

NIKKOL Nikkomulese® 41S is a natural O/W emulsifier complex and enables gel network structure for stabilizing oil particles. SPF water resistance was measured in vivo on sunscreen creams emulsified with NIKKOL Nikkomulese® 41 and EO after immersing in water for 40 minutes. Sunscreen with NIKKOL Nikkomulese® 41 kept 94% of the SPF score, showing high water-resistance. In addition, when the sweat-proof property of the sunscreen film was evaluated in vitro, SEM images showed that a film was maintained.

  • In-vivo SPF score after 40 min
    (Tested by US FDA water resistance method)
  • Sweat-proof Result
    (in-house method)

*These tests are conducted by using sunscreen with NIKKOL Nikkomulese® 41 grade.

Natural Film Former with Inorganic UV Filter

Because oil particles containing organic absorbents and inorganic filters are dispersed between the gel network structures, when applied to the skin, it spreads evenly and effectively blocks UV rays. In addition, the gel network structure beneficially prevents transepidermal water loss for moisturizing efficacy.

Image and Microgram of Gel Network Structure

Tested Mineral Sunscreen Formula

Herbal UV Protection Milk, SPF32 PA++ (in-vivo, 3 subjects)

・Natural Origin Index =99% (Including water, ISO16128 compliant)

Soft and smoothly spreading sunscreen milk. Clear finish without leaving white cast. Macadamia nut oil and natural derived squalane give emollient. Formulate high ratio of natural origin ingredients.

When using a fine particle UV mineral filter with a hydrophobic surface, combining it with the anionic surfactant NIKKOL SMT* improves powder dispersibility due to the repulsive force of the static electricity of the load, making it easier to create a stable emulsion.

*NIKKOL SMT (INCI name: Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate)

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*Raw material verified by ECOCERT GREENLIFE for NIPPON SURFACTANT INDUSTRIES CO., LTD., conforming to the COSMOS Standard.

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NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LC-EF
Skin mimetic emulsifier that can improve skin barrier function.
Skin mimetic emulsifier that can improve skin barrier function
NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LC-EF

INCI name: STEARYL ALCOHOL, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, PHYTOSTEROLS, GLYCERYL STEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-10 MYRISTATE, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE

  • EWG SCORE Clean Beauty1
  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index0.99
  • No-Animal Testing
  • Preservative-free
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
  • HALAL Certified
Second Skin Structure Hydrate for 24h

NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LC-EF is a natural O/W complex emulsifier that forms a lamellar liquid crystal structure similar to lipid bilayer, improving barrier function and providing excellent moisturizing effect.
Since the lamellar structure can be maintained even at various temperatures (28-40 ℃) and in the presence of salt, NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LC-EF can create a very stable lamellar structure.

Suppression Effect on Barrier Function Deterioration

Lamellar cream applied to skin showed significantly better TEWL than that of the control cream.
It was confirmed that cream with NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LC-EF significantly improved the barrier function and epidermal water content.

Mineral Sunscreen Formula

Natural UV Base

Natural lamellar cream and hyaluronic acid gives deep moisture. Beige tone cream naturally cover spots and dullness.

NIKKOL SMT helps mineral UV filters to disperse and stabilize in cream.

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NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LH
Cellulose-based emulsifying complex with good salt tolerance.
Cellulose-based emulsifying complex with good salt tolerance
NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LH

INCI name: Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Squalane, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate

  • EWG SCORE Clean Beauty1
  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index0.97
  • No-Animal Testing
  • Preservative-free
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
  • HALAL Certified
Build Viscosity Even If Incorporating Mineral UV Filters
  • NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LH is a natural O/W gel emulsifier and is salt-tolerant. Graph shows the viscosity of aqueous solution containing 4.5% NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LH was influenced less by adding NaCl than that of other polymer emulsifying complexes.
    Since mineral UV filters affect viscosity built by polymer emulsifiers, this salt-tolerant property is essential for stable UV emulsions.

  • Tolerance to NaCl

Mineral Sunscreen Formula

Sunscreen Cream

Mainly composed of light weight natural esters. NIKKOL Nikkomulese® LH provides viscosity and creamy texture.

NIKKOL SMT supports good dispersion of mineral filters.

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NIKKOL Nikkomulese® WO-NS
Natural W/O emulsifier complex that allows cold-process formulas.
Natural W/O emulsifier complex that allows cold-process formulas
NIKKOL Nikkomulese® WO-NS

INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE

  • EWG SCORE Clean Beauty1
  • RSPO Compliant
  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index0.97
  • No-Animal Testing
  • Preservative-free
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
Mineral Filter Dispersed in Oil Spreads and Adheres Closely

NIKKOL Nikkomulese® WO-NS is a natural W/O emulsifier that combines organically modified hectorite and polyglycerin fatty acid esters. W/O pickering emulsion is formed by organic hectorite, and water can be stably emulsified in oil. Non-silicone oils such as ester oils, vegetable oils, UV absorbers and hydrocarbon oils are suitable as oils phase and are perfect for silicone-free and natural concept formulations.
Because the outer oil phase contains polyglycerin fatty acid ester, which has excellent powder dispersibility, as a component, NIKKOL Nikkomulese® WO-NS alone can stably formulate inorganic UV filters. Since the outer phase is the oil phase, sunscreen cream adheres to the skin with a water-proof film.

Mineral Sunscreen Formula

Natural W/O Sunscreen

Only natural and mineral ingredients are applied in this W/O sunscreen cream. Rich texture adheres to skin and protect skin from UV rays.

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Natural Dispersants

NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15
Stabilizer + dispersant for W/O suncare formulas.
Stabilizer + Dispersant for W/O suncare formulas
NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15

INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate

  • EWG SCORE Clean Beauty1
  • RSPO Compliant
  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index1
  • No-Animal Testing
  • Preservative-free
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
Disperse TiO2 and ZnO efficiently

NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15 is a plant-derived ester of ricinoleic acid and hexaglycerin, which is a sustainable raw material. Since it is a nonionic surfactant with many hydroxyl groups in its structure, NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15 has a high affinity with inorganic UV filters. It’s effective in improving the dispersibility of inorganic pigments in oil.
When the dispersibility for the hydrophobized titanium oxide (particle size 10 nm) and zinc oxide (particle size 25 nm) was evaluated, the significant dispersion effect was confirmed at the concentrations shown in the figure below for 50% of mineral UV filter dispersion.

Dispersant ability against nano mineral UV filters

Quickly Disperse Pigment

The dispersion performance of NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15 to amino-acid treated pigments in mineral oil or cetyl ethylhexanoate were evaluated as ΔE(ab) which showed the color before and after dispersion of lightness, redness and yellowness. The condition was observed after 1 day.
Comparing the ΔE(ab) of the dispersions of 10% Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate-treated Iron Oxide and 88% oils, it was found that dispersibility improved in both mineral oil and cetyl ethylhexanoate when 2% NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15 was added.

Dispersant ability against disodium stearoyl glutamate treated pigments

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NIKKOL SMT
Stabilizer + dispersant for O/W suncare formulas.
*The Natural Origin Index of NIKKOL SMT is 0.62 (ISO16128 compliant).
Stabilizer & Dispersant for O/W suncare formulas
NIKKOL SMT

INCI name: SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE

  • EWG SCORE Clean Beauty1
  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index0.67
  • No-Animal Testing
  • Preservative-free
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
  • HALAL Certified
Disperse TiO2 and ZnO and Stabilize by Building Viscosity

NIKKOL SMT is an anionic surfactant which is highly safe for the skin. Dissolves in water and is resistant to both acids and alkalis. Since NIKKOL SMT is negatively charged in water phase, it easily adsorbs to inorganic powder and disperses well. Since it has stearic acid in its chemical structure, the viscosity and stability of O/W emulsion is increased even in the presence of salt.

Excellent Stabilizer for Mineral Sunscreen

NIKKOL SMT has an excellent stabilizing effect on O/W mineral sunscreen.
The O/W emulsion containing 35% titanium oxide and zinc oxide dispersion (powder amount is 17.5%), 25% oil and 3% NIKKOL Nikkomulese 41 was stored at a cycle and high temperature condition for 1 month, and the emulsified state was observed. The sample to which 0.5% NIKKOL SMT was added had a good emulsified state, whereas 5% thickening polymer (2% aq.) alone could not stabilize, and the inorganic UV filters were aggregated.

Stability after 1 month in cycle and 50℃

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Botanicals for Enhanced Sun Protection

UJI TEA EXTRACT (B)-BG
Kyoto-cultivated premium green tea to minimize sunburn effect.
Kyoto-cultivated premium green tea to minimize sunburn effect
UJI TEA EXTRACT(B)-BG

INCI name: CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT, WATER, BUTYLENE GLYCOL

  • Verified by ECOCERET COSMOS APPROVED
  • EWG SCORE Clean Beauty1-2
  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index0.99
  • No-Animal Testing
  • Preservative-free
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
Japanese Uji Tea Extract Protects & Heals Skin from UV Induced Spots.

[Leaflet] DOWNLOAD "Uji Tea Leaf"

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*Raw material verified by ECOCERT GREENLIFE for Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co., Ltd, conforming to the COSMOS Standard.

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ROSE MYRTLE EXTRACT (B)-BG 80
Wild fruit grown in South China - rich in resveratrol analogues.
Wild fruit grown in South China - rich in resveratrol analogues
ROSE MYRTLE EXTRACT(B)-BG 80

INCI name: Butylene Glycol, Water, Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract

  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index0.98
  • No-Animal Testing
  • Preservative-free
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
Resveratrol-like Strong Anti-oxidant Protects DNA against UV rays.

[Leaflet] DOWNLOAD "Rose Myrtle Fruit"

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SILVER VINE EXTRACT PD
Asian Superfruit Blocks Blue-light and Improves Skin Translucency.
Asian Superfruit Blocks Blue-light and Improves Skin Translucency
SILVER VINE EXTRACT PD

INCI name: Propanediol, Water, Actinidia Polygama Fruit Extract

  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index1
  • No-Animal Testing
  • Preservative-free
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
Silver Vine Suppresses Carbonyl Protein Accumulation For Brighter Skin

[Leaflet] DOWNLOAD "Silver Vine Fruit"

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PHOTOSOMES V
Enzyme from Blue-Green Algae that harnesses the power of sunlight.
Enzyme from Blue-Green Algae that harnesses the power of sunlight
PHOTOSOMES V

INCI name: PLANKTON EXTRACT, LECITHIN, WATER

  • EWG SCORE Clean Beauty1-2
  • ISO 16128 Rating Natural Origin Index0.98
  • No-Animal Testing
  • China Compliant IECIC 2021 Listed
  • HALAL Certified
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